Wednesday, 16 April 2014

Best ATV quad 150cc, 200cc and 250cc for hilly terrain pahadi Indian Off roads









Best quad bike for India farms, resorts by ATV India.9930059599.












Leading and widely used ATV in farms, commercial operators ..by ATV India 9930059599.





Do visit ,
www.facebook.com/AtvIndiaPowersport for more information.

How to prevent and fight against rust, Tips_n_Tricks by ATV India.

#Prevent_rust
If you live near Sea-shore,coastal area, chances are you've seen more than your share of rusted-out spots. (frame, exhaust, etc.) Rust isn't just ugly, it also reduces your atv's structural strength and can weaken its ability to protect you against small accident. Hence need to prevent rust.
You can reduce rust using WD40 and anri rust lubricants available in market.. Making sure parts on the bike are a bit greasy prevents them agains salt and rust. You can spray some WD40 on the frame, engine, shocks, a-arms, swing arm, exhaust and radiator. But never spray on the brakediscs!
Finasol is also a good product that protects. It is used on engines and rubber hoses giving back that brand new look. Put it on, let it set and wash it off. Like new!
AUTUMN TIP:
  1. Be sure to give the rust sensitive components on your bike a rust preventing coat of WD40, before the first snowfall.
#WINTER TIPS:
  1. Never leave atv uncleaned with snow hanging on. Brush it off.
  2. Never clean off snow with water if it's freezing.
  3. As soon as temp is above 0° don't forget to clean underneath the atv too, by tilting it up, letting it lean on its grabbar.
  4. If the temperature stays up, wash the atv weekly.
  5. Park outside. A warm garage melts the snow and ice stuck to your atv and allows the embedded salt to start its destructive work on the belly of the frame.
#SPRING TIP:
  1. When the snow is gone for good, check your atv for signs of rust. Remember, once rust starts, it only gets worse, so repair any rust spots with allittle sanding and a coat (or 2) of paint.

#Fight_rust

Rust Removal:
The surface must be cleaned of all loose and flaking rust and paint.
#Sandblasting:
Sandblasting is the easiest, quickest way to remove old paint and rust from metal. Compressed air at high pressure is used to blow fine sand or other abrasive material through a hardened spray nozzle and quickly "blasts" away whatever the blast material hits.
#Wire_Brushing, Sanding:
Use a hand brush or a wire wheel brush and drill. Normally a few quick passes will remove the loose material. If the surface is to be finished in a smooth painted finish then the wire brushing should be followed up with a complete sanding until it is smooth and free of defects. Normally a rough sanding with 80 grit sandpaper followed by a smooth sanding with 120 grit does an adequate job. Holes, cracks, etc. should be filled first with an auto body filler material if you are going for a top quality finish.
#Chemical_Removal:
Acid or strong alkaline materials which dissolve rust. These products work well but must be used with extreme caution due to the chemical nature of the products.
#Rust_Conversion:
Organic Rust Converters. These products convert rust to harmless chemical compounds and deposit on the surface a protective film that protects against rust.
Pros...No serious wire brushing or sanding is required, these products actually need a rusty surface in order for them to work properly. Water base, easy to apply, non-flammable. Rust Converters are ideal for ornamental iron and other areas where wire brushing and sanding is difficult or the surface is not easily accessible. They not only convert existing rust to an inert organic surface but also deposit a rust inhibiting polymer on the surface which does not require finish paints or coatings, this is the ideal treatment for ease of use with minimum surface prep required.
Cons...The downside to rust converters is they are thicker than normal coatings and tend to leave a high build, rather "ropey" looking finish, ( looks like paint would with a lot of brush marks). This would not be a problem on wrought iron or any other surface where a super smooth finish is desired.
Cleaning:
Next the surface must be cleaned and degreased, paints and coatings do not bond well to dirty or greasy surfaces. A washing with a strong detergent followed by a through rinsing is required. The light "flash rust" that appears after washing can be removed with a cloth dampened with paint thinner or one of the commercial "surface prep" materials available.
At this point you can coat the metal with a simple oil or grease like WD40, a good application for something like gardening or hand tools.
Painted items should be primed with a rust inhibiting primer and finished with two coats of a quality exterior enamel. Spraying is quite acceptable but I strongly recommend that the primer be brushed or sprayed and worked into the surface with a brush while still wet. Spray painting alone will not get the paint down into tiny pinholes and crevices but will only "bridge" these areas resulting in premature failure as the moisture and oxygen will attack the exposed steel.
Modern paint chemistry now allows water base paints to be produced which have fantastic rust inhibiting properties and I highly recommend them over solvent base. Besides being low odor and easy to cleanup, an added advantage to water base paints is their ability to melt in with any trapped moisture which may not be visible to the naked eye. These coatings will force the moisture up to the surface and replace it with rust proof chemicals that seal the surface off. You will see rust looking spots in your dried primer but do not be concerned, most can be wiped off with a cloth as it is nothing more than rusty moisture that has been forced to the surface.
Summary:
Regardless of which finish system you use, preparation is a must!
For painted finishes, prep, apply rust converter, or metal primer and two coats of rust inhibiting finish enamel.

Thursday, 10 April 2014

Awesome part of driving drifting and riding dirt bikes


ATV....QUAD BIKE.....MUD BIKE....
          MOUNTAIN BIKE...         BEACH BIKE..
SAND BIKE.....
Whatever name you are familiar with....
You r gonna Enjoy...!
Four wheels like a car, but handlebars and a saddle like a motorcycle. 
With quad bikes, 
it's almost like someone took the 
most awesome part of driving — drifting 
 and 
combined it with the most exciting thing about riding 
dirt bikes — jumping — to create a vehicle with a single purpose..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jeuUB4xvj9E

Saturday, 5 April 2014

Best ATV suitable for Indian Terrain


IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION ATVIndia

November 5, 2013 at 10:56am
Your #off roader_ATV will provide you with many years of service and pleasure, providing
you take responsibility for your own safety and understand the challenges you may
meet while driving.


#Protect yourself while operating your off roader . You'll
find many helpful recommendations throughout this manual. The following are a
few that we consider most important.

Follow the Age Recommendation Experienced adult supervision should be present for all inexperienced operators.


#Always Wear a Helmet
It's a proven fact: wearing helmets significantly reduces the number and severity of head
injuries. Always wear an approved motorcycle helmet. We also recommend that you
wear eye protection, sturdy boots, gloves, and other protective gear.


#Drive Off-Road Only
Your off roader is designed and manufactured for off-road use only. Its tires are not
made for pavement, and the kart does not have features required for use on public roads.
If you need to cross a paved or public road, shut the machines power off, get off and walk your off roader across.


#Take Time to Learn & Practice
Even if you have driven other karts, take time to become familiar with how this
kart works and handles. Practice in a safe area until you build your skills and get
accustomed to this kart's size and weight.
Because many accidents involve inexperienced or untrained drivers, we urge all drivers
to take a training course approved by the Go-Kart Safety Institute. Check with your dealer
for more information on training courses.


#Be Alert for Off-Road Hazards
The terrain can present a variety of challenges when you drive off-road. Continually
"read" the terrain for unexpected turns, drop-offs, rocks, ruts, and other hazards. Always
keep your speed low enough to allow time to see and react to hazards.


#Drive within Your Limits
Pushing limits is another major cause of kart accidents. Never drive beyond your
personal abilities or faster than conditions warrant. Remember that alcohol, drugs, fatigue,and inattention can significantly reduce your ability to make good judgments and drive safely.


#Alcohol, Drugs, and Driving
Alcohol, drugs and driving don't mix. Even one drink can reduce your ability to respond to
changing conditions, and your reaction time gets worse with every additional drink. So
don't drink and drive, and don't let your friends drink and drive either. Do not operate
this kart if you are taking any prescriptions.


#Do Not Operate this off roader at Night
Lower visibility at night can greatly reduce a driver’s judgment. Driving at night is
dangerous and will increase the possibility of an accident.


#Never Run Your Kart Indoors
The exhaust from the engine contains carbon monoxide, a poisonous gas which is tasteless
& odorless. Carbon monoxide kills.


#Keep Away from Moving Parts of the Kart
Never place your hands or any other body part near any moving part of the kart. Failure
to adhere to this warning may cause physical harm to your body.


#Skidding or Sliding
The terrain’s surface can be a major factor affecting turns. Skidding in a turn is more likely to occur on slippery surfaces such as snow, ice, mud, and loose gravel. If you skid on ice, you may lose all directional control. To avoid skidding on slippery terrain, keep your speed low and drive carefully.
The terrain can present a variety of challenges when you drive off-road. Continually
"read" the terrain for unexpected turns, drop-offs, rocks, ruts, and other hazards. Always
keep your speed low enough to allow time to see and react to hazards.



Important Safety #Information when riding a bike..!
Important Safety #Information when riding a bike..!

Friday, 4 April 2014

What is Brake Horse Power?

Brake Horse Power :
 (BHP) is the amount of power generated by a motor without taking into consideration any of the various auxiliary components that may slow down the actual speed of the motor. Sometimes referred to as pure horsepower, brake horsepower is measured within the engine's output shaft.

In short ,
Break horse power is the useful power available at the flywheel of an engine.
It is often abbreviated as b.h.p. and is derived from the conventional method of measuring horsepower. 

HP vs BHP
You are bound to have stumbled upon the term Horsepower, whether you own a vehicle or not. HP is a measurement which is used during ads for cars, and it’s also something that you will often hear being used by those who work in machine shops, or even men who are car enthusiasts, but what about the term Brake Horsepower, or BHP? The difference between the two is what we will now uncover.
First, let’s start with what HP is all about. Invented by James Watt, horsepower originally measured the amount of work, that a horse lifting coal out of a coal mine, could do in a minute. Back then, one HP equated to 33,000 foot-pounds. Today, you can easily convert HP into different units, like 1 HP that equates to 746 Watts. It can also be converted into British Thermal Units, or BTU, joules and calories.
However, the most common use of HP, as a unit, is to measure the power of an engine ‘“ which you can determine by hooking it to a dynamometer. What HP actually measures, is the maximum rate of acceleration and the top speed of the car.
On the other hand, Brake Horsepower measures the HP of an engine without considering the loss in power that is caused by some parts of the engine, like the generator, gearbox, water pump and other auxiliary parts.
There are actually no other key differences between BHP and HP, other than the fact that when BHP is measured, the engine torque is determined by applying a break to the flywheel ‘“ as opposed to using a  converter, like in the case of HP.
To summerize, HP is measured with all the accoutrements attached to the engine, to determine its maximum rate and speed. BHP, on the other hand, is more of a theoretical calculation, which is made under lab-controlled conditions, and without having anything attached to the engine.
Summary:
1. HP is the output horsepower rating of an engine, while BHP is the input brake horsepower of an engine.
2. B HP is the measurement of an engine’s power without any power losses, while HP is BHP less the power losses.
3. HP is measured by hooking up the engine to a dynamometer, while BHP is measured in a controlled environment without anything attached to the engine.