#Prevent_rust
If you live near Sea-shore,coastal area,
chances are you've seen more than your share of rusted-out spots.
(frame, exhaust, etc.) Rust isn't just ugly, it also reduces your atv's
structural strength and can weaken its ability to protect you against
small accident. Hence need to prevent rust.
You can reduce rust
using WD40 and anri rust lubricants available in market.. Making sure
parts on the bike are a bit greasy prevents them agains salt and rust.
You can spray some WD40 on the frame, engine, shocks, a-arms, swing arm,
exhaust and radiator. But never spray on the brakediscs!
Finasol
is also a good product that protects. It is used on engines and rubber
hoses giving back that brand new look. Put it on, let it set and wash it
off. Like new!
AUTUMN TIP:
- Be sure to give the rust sensitive components on your bike a rust preventing coat of WD40, before the first snowfall.
#WINTER TIPS:
- Never leave atv uncleaned with snow hanging on. Brush it off.
- Never clean off snow with water if it's freezing.
- As soon as temp is above 0° don't forget to clean underneath the atv too, by tilting it up, letting it lean on its grabbar.
- If the temperature stays up, wash the atv weekly.
- Park
outside. A warm garage melts the snow and ice stuck to your atv and
allows the embedded salt to start its destructive work on the belly of
the frame.
#SPRING TIP:
- When
the snow is gone for good, check your atv for signs of rust. Remember,
once rust starts, it only gets worse, so repair any rust spots with
allittle sanding and a coat (or 2) of paint.
#Fight_rust
Rust Removal:
The surface must be cleaned of all loose and flaking rust and paint.
#Sandblasting:
Sandblasting is the easiest, quickest way to remove old paint and rust
from metal. Compressed air at high pressure is used to blow fine sand or
other abrasive material through a hardened spray nozzle and quickly
"blasts" away whatever the blast material hits.
#Wire_Brushing, Sanding:
Use a hand brush or a wire wheel brush and drill. Normally a few quick
passes will remove the loose material. If the surface is to be finished
in a smooth painted finish then the wire brushing should be followed up
with a complete sanding until it is smooth and free of defects. Normally
a rough sanding with 80 grit sandpaper followed by a smooth sanding
with 120 grit does an adequate job. Holes, cracks, etc. should be filled
first with an auto body filler material if you are going for a top
quality finish.
#Chemical_Removal: Acid or strong
alkaline materials which dissolve rust. These products work well but
must be used with extreme caution due to the chemical nature of the
products.
#Rust_Conversion: Organic Rust Converters.
These products convert rust to harmless chemical compounds and deposit
on the surface a protective film that protects against rust.
Pros...No
serious wire brushing or sanding is required, these products actually
need a rusty surface in order for them to work properly. Water base,
easy to apply, non-flammable. Rust Converters are ideal for ornamental
iron and other areas where wire brushing and sanding is difficult or the
surface is not easily accessible. They not only convert existing rust
to an inert organic surface but also deposit a rust inhibiting polymer
on the surface which does not require finish paints or coatings, this is
the ideal treatment for ease of use with minimum surface prep required.
Cons...The
downside to rust converters is they are thicker than normal coatings
and tend to leave a high build, rather "ropey" looking finish, ( looks
like paint would with a lot of brush marks). This would not be a problem
on wrought iron or any other surface where a super smooth finish is
desired.
Cleaning: Next the surface must be cleaned and
degreased, paints and coatings do not bond well to dirty or greasy
surfaces. A washing with a strong detergent followed by a through
rinsing is required. The light "flash rust" that appears after washing
can be removed with a cloth dampened with paint thinner or one of the
commercial "surface prep" materials available.
At this point you
can coat the metal with a simple oil or grease like WD40, a good
application for something like gardening or hand tools.
Painted
items should be primed with a rust inhibiting primer and finished with
two coats of a quality exterior enamel. Spraying is quite acceptable but
I strongly recommend that the primer be brushed or sprayed and worked
into the surface with a brush while still wet. Spray painting alone will
not get the paint down into tiny pinholes and crevices but will only
"bridge" these areas resulting in premature failure as the moisture and
oxygen will attack the exposed steel.
Modern paint chemistry now
allows water base paints to be produced which have fantastic rust
inhibiting properties and I highly recommend them over solvent base.
Besides being low odor and easy to cleanup, an added advantage to water
base paints is their ability to melt in with any trapped moisture which
may not be visible to the naked eye. These coatings will force the
moisture up to the surface and replace it with rust proof chemicals that
seal the surface off. You will see rust looking spots in your dried
primer but do not be concerned, most can be wiped off with a cloth as it
is nothing more than rusty moisture that has been forced to the
surface.
Summary:
Regardless of which finish system you use, preparation is a must!
For painted finishes, prep, apply rust converter, or metal primer and two coats of rust inhibiting finish enamel.
